New-construction framing inspections · Middle Tennessee

Plumb, Level, Square, and Symmetric, From the Ground Up.

Before the drywall goes up, somebody should ask: does this make sense? I'm Gary L. Duncan, with 25+ years in the construction industry. I inspect your new home's framing and rough-ins the way it was built, from the ground up, and I work for you, not the builder.

  • Franklin · Brentwood · Williamson County · Nashville area
  • Independent of your builder
  • Photo report you can hand to your builder
IT ALL STARTS FROM THE GROUND UP
Our approach

Get it wrong at the bottom, and everything above follows suit.

Every house starts at the ground and works its way up, and that's how I inspect it. Every piece of framing and every mechanical rough-in gets measured against four basics. If the bottom is off, the walls lean, the doors bind, the cabinets won't sit right, and the drywall shows every wave.

  • Plumb
  • Level
  • Square
  • Symmetric

I don't just look for what's broken. I look for what doesn't make sense.

When something looks odd or out of place, I ask three questions:

  • Why did the builder do this?
  • What's it here for?
  • Is this the best place?
Fix it nowcheap
Fix it laterexpensive
What I inspect

The Duncan Group framing inspection checklist

I work from the ground up, measuring every item against plumb, level, square, and symmetric, and asking whether it makes sense.

A

Site & grade

  • Current site drainage: where the water goes today, and whether it's ponding at the foundation.
  • Rough grade: dirt sloping away from the house, with clearance to the framing and siding.
  • Site conditions: lumber soaking, materials sitting in mud, erosion at the slab.
B

Foundation connection

  • Anchor bolts & sill plates: walls bolted down, nuts and washers on, plates sitting flat.
  • Hold-downs & straps: installed where they belong, with every nail hole filled.
  • Bearing: no overhangs, gaps, or shims doing a beam's job.
C

Floors

  • Joists, beams & girders: supported, not over-cut, hangers fully nailed.
  • Subfloor: glued and fastened, flat, not swollen. Walked for squeaks and bounce.
  • Level & flat: high and low spots that turn into cracked tile and rolling floors later.
D

Walls

  • Plumb & straight: no leaning, bowing, or waves that show through drywall and trim.
  • Stud layout & square corners: so cabinets, tile, and flooring sit right.
  • Headers & load-bearing walls: supported at each end, with the load carried down to the foundation.
  • Over-cut framing: studs and plates notched or drilled too far by other trades.
  • Bracing, sheathing & nailing, plus fire blocking and draft stopping.
E

Windows & doors

  • Rough openings: plumb, level, and square.
  • Alignment & reveal: even gaps, with units centered and set straight.
  • Operation: windows open, close, and lock; doors swing and latch without rubbing.
  • Flashing & house wrap lapped the right way, and openings that line up where they should.
F

Stairs

  • Rise & run: consistent steps, with no "trip step" at the top or bottom.
  • Stringers: solid, properly hung, not over-notched, with fire blocking between them.
  • Headroom, width & handrail backing.
G

Roof & attic framing

  • Trusses & rafters: straight, spaced, and braced. No cut, broken, or field-altered trusses.
  • Roof-to-wall ties installed and nailed.
  • Sheathing, attic access, and straight ridge and roof lines.
H

Mechanicals & rough-ins

  • Ducts, vents & registers: placement, centering, alignment, and function. No crushed or kinked runs.
  • Exhaust vents routed outside, not into the attic.
  • Plumbing: supported, protected, sloped, with fixtures centered.
  • Electrical: secured, nail plates on, and boxes lined up at consistent heights.
  • Low-voltage: data, TV, security, doorbell, speakers, and Wi-Fi where you want them.
I

Drywall readiness

  • Backing, blocking & deadwood for drywall edges, cabinets, grab bars, towel bars, handrails, TV mounts, shelving, and heavy fixtures.
  • Framing flat and in plane: no proud studs that show as bumps.
  • Moisture & lumber condition checked before it's sealed in.
  • Ready to close: rough-ins complete, fire blocking done.

Bottom line on every item: fix it now (cheap) or fix it later (expensive).

Why it pays

What you get

  • Inspected from the ground up.I start with the site and the foundation connection, because that's where problems begin.
  • One standard: plumb, level, square, and symmetric.The same yardstick a good framer uses.
  • Someone asking, "Does this make sense?"Not just checking boxes, but questioning anything odd or out of place.
  • Fix it now, while it's cheap.Most items are quick to correct while the walls are open.
  • Ready for drywall, and for living.Blocking is checked for cabinets, handrails, and TV mounts, and windows and doors are checked for alignment and operation.
  • A photo report your builder can act on.Clear photos, exact locations, and plain language.
  • 25+ years in the construction industry, working for you.Not for the builder.
Good question

Why get one when the city already inspects?

The city or county framing inspection matters, and your house has to pass it. But its job is narrow: checking that the work meets the minimum code, usually in a short visit, often with many other sites on the inspector's list that day.

My job is different. I look at how well your house was built, and whether it makes sense. A house can pass code and still have answers you don't like.

The city checks the minimum. I check the workmanship, from the ground up.

  • Is that wall plumb?
  • Is that window opening square, and will the window operate right?
  • Is the bath vent centered in the room, or stuck wherever it fit?
  • Why is there a duct running through that wall, and is that the best place for it?
  • Is there blocking where the cabinets and handrails will go?
Straight talk

What a framing inspection is, and what it isn't

What it IS

  • A look inside your walls before they're closed, while the framing, connectors, and rough-ins are visible.
  • A ground-up workmanship evaluation, from site and grade to the roof, against plumb, level, square, and symmetric.
  • A "does it make sense?" review of placement, alignment, and how things were built, with anything odd or out of place flagged.
  • A drywall-readiness check: blocking and backing in, windows and doors operating, and mechanicals where they belong.
  • A photo record and a to-do list for your builder, so you can fix it now (cheap), not later (expensive).

What it is NOT

  • Not the city or county code inspection, and not a sign-off. Only the building department approves the work.
  • Not an engineering review. No calculations of beam sizes, spans, or wind loads. If something looks structural, I'll recommend a licensed engineer.
  • Not a guarantee or warranty. It reports what's visible on inspection day.
  • Not invasive. Nothing is opened, cut, or moved, and covered or blocked areas can't be evaluated.
  • Not a finished-home inspection. Fixtures, appliances, and running systems are checked at the final.
  • Not plan or contract verification, unless that's arranged ahead of time.
Framing inspection (The Duncan Group)City / county framing inspectionFinal (pre-closing) inspectionEngineer's evaluation
Works forYou, the buyerThe jurisdictionYou, the buyerWhoever hires the engineer
PurposeWorkmanship and whether it makes sense: plumb, level, square, symmetricMinimum code complianceCondition and operation of the finished homeStructural design and adequacy
WhenAfter rough-ins, before insulation and drywallSame stage, requiredAfter completion, before closingAs needed
Sees inside the walls?YesYesNoSometimes
Checks placement, alignment & blocking?YesGenerally noFinished result onlyNo
Approves the work?NoYesNoCan stamp designs and repairs
Calculates loads or sizing?NoLimited plan reviewNoYes
Detailed photo report to you?YesNo (pass/fail)YesYes (letter or report)
Guarantee?NoNoNoNo

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FAQs

Common questions

When should I schedule a framing (pre-drywall) inspection?

After the framing, roof, windows, and rough-ins (plumbing, electrical, HVAC, and low-voltage) are in, and before insulation. Ask your builder when the city frame inspection is expected to pass and when insulation is scheduled, then book in between.

What do you mean by "plumb, level, square, and symmetric"?

Those are the four basics every good house is built on. Plumb means walls stand straight up and down. Level means floors and headers are flat. Square means corners and openings are true 90s. Symmetric means things that should line up actually line up. When those are right, everything else goes together right.

Why do you check things like duct and vent placement?

Because placement matters. A register in the wrong spot, a vent off-center in the ceiling, or a duct squeezed through a wall can mean comfort problems, or a finished room that just looks wrong. I ask: what's it here for, and is this the best place?

Will my builder allow it?

Many builders do, and many purchase contracts address third-party inspections. Check your contract and give your builder notice early so site access can be arranged.

What happens if you find problems?

You send my report to your builder, and the trades correct the items before drywall. Ask me about coming back to look at the corrections.

Is this a code inspection?

No. It's an independent workmanship inspection. I may point out things that look like code concerns, but only your local building department approves the work.

Do I still need a final inspection?

Yes. The framing inspection covers what will be hidden. The final inspection covers finishes, fixtures, appliances, and how the systems actually run.

What if the insulation is already in?

Call anyway. Some things are still visible, and I'll tell you straight whether it's still worth doing.

It all starts from the ground up, and the drywall date is coming.

Get your framing inspection on the calendar before the walls close. Call as soon as your builder gives you a pre-drywall date. Fix it now (cheap), not later (expensive).